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Kamis, 08 Desember 2016

Former Honey Birdette workers call out alleged exploitation and harassment

"Spank me if I'm wrong" is recommended sales "banter" in the customer service manifesto, and daily selfies must be sent to managers so they can determine whether their retail workers are exposing three items of branded lingerie.

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This is the bras, corsets and sex-toy chain Honey Birdette, where former staff say they were given formal warnings or publicly shamed if they didn't wear heels high enough or lipstick red enough.

It's also where sexual harassment of staff by customers is persistent and widespread, ranging from leering and inappropriate comments to in-store masturbation and stalking.

Chanelle Rodgers (left) and Tori Bellentina protest against their former employer, Honey Birdette, on Thursday. Chanelle Rodgers (left) and Tori Bellentina protest against their former employer, Honey Birdette, on Thursday. Photo: Chris Hopkins

The fast-growing shopping mall chain, set up in the wake of international brands Victoria's Secret and Agent Provocateur and part-owned by billionaire Brett Blundy, is selling a fantasy of feminist sexual emancipation. But staff say the reality for them is dangerous and exploitative workplace conditions.

Their story comes after revelations in Fairfax Media of the widespread sexual harassment of women by their customers, and the virtual inaction of regulatory authorities.

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At Honey Birdette the problem starts, former workers say, with the recruitment process. Candidates are vetted for their looks via video interview or through their Instagram and Facebook profiles.

"They are looking for girls who take lots of photos of themselves and carry themselves in a way that is more exposed to the public; [girls] who are actively seeking that kind of acceptance and who they can mould into their ideal," says Nadelle, one of 10 former employees from three states who have spoken to Fairfax Media.

Ms Bellentina demanded to be paid for time worked before and after opening hours. Ms Bellentina demanded to be paid for time worked before and after opening hours. Photo: Penny Stephens

Once employed, "Honeys" must adhere to a strict uniform policy that includes high heels and skirts (trousers are banned), and items from current lingerie ranges â€" which staff must buy (at a discount). Specific "Hollywood starlet" make-up is also a requirement.

Ex-workers say they spent $150-$200 a week (up to a third of their after-tax income) conforming with the brand's uniform requirements. But handling boxes and climbing ladders to access stock was a daily hazard in the "uniform". One ex-worker said she left after injuring her back moving boxes while wearing a Honey Birdette corset.

Ms Rodgers and Ms Bellentina burn a bra from Honey Birdette Ms Rodgers and Ms Bellentina burn a bra from Honey Birdette Photo: Chris Hopkins

A culture of surveillance included the daily selfies, as well as surprise visits and after-hours emails to make sure "Honeys" stayed back after closing, on unpaid time.

It is a culture many former workers say made them stressed and anxious. One said that, once on the way home from work, she had found herself weeping and hyperventilating in the emergency lane.

Ms Rodgers makes her objections loud and clear. Ms Rodgers makes her objections loud and clear. Photo: Chris Hopkins

"I felt constantly watched, constantly on edge," says Alice* who worked for Honey Birdette in regional Queensland.

Alice once posted a photo of herself in a new "set" (bra, knickers, suspender belt and hosiery) to a staff group chat, only to find it in an Australia-wide company email the following week. "I was like, they just posted my boobs on the internet … no one asked me ... that was a bit confronting."

Illustration: Ron Tandberg Illustration: Ron Tandberg 

Adding to their vulnerability, many were rostered entire days on their own. Women say they were refused toilet and meal breaks because they were not allowed to close the shop. One says she urinated in an empty rubbish bin in desperation one day, another that she didn't drink, to limit her distress.

"I wouldn't eat for eight hours â€"  a few times I almost fainted," says former staffer Mabel.*

Ms Bellentina refused to buy the brand's lingerie, arguing it should be free. Ms Bellentina refused to buy the brand's lingerie, arguing it should be free. Photo: Penny Stephens

Among every 10 customers, about three were men, one of whom would invariably leer at them, or make sleazy remarks, the ex-workers say. Demeaning and intimidating behaviour was most frightening for those working unaccompanied.

One 19-year-old worked alone for a 6pm-to-6am shift during a pre-Christmas 36-hour shopping centre trading marathon. With other nearby retailers closed, she was "very intimidated" by drink and drug-affected male customers. Others talk of men pestering them with probing and personal comments or using the sex toys in the store to masturbate.

A former employee of Honey Birdette who was required to send daily selfies to her area manger to show her ''look'' ... A former employee of Honey Birdette who was required to send daily selfies to her area manger to show her ''look'' conformed with the brand's uniform policies 

Honey Birdette management had no training in dealing with sexual harassment, the women say, nor formal complaint mechanisms. Managers would respond by advising staff to turn the behaviour into a sales opportunity: "They'd say, 'He's probably shy; just go with it, then they'll buy something'," one former employee, Jess, said.

Jess said she was stalked for almost a year by a customer who sat on a bench outside her store and stared at her day after day, and then found out where she lived. He later showed up near her home.

"I got no sympathy or support from work," Jess said.

When she went to court for a restraining order, Honey Birdette required her to take unpaid leave, and asked her to be as quick as possible because she was the best saleswoman.

Click here for 'Not asking for it'Click here for 'Not asking for it'>

The chain had a "Little Black Book" of rules for staff (which includes "Spank me if I'm wrong" among recommended phrases), and the company's sales handbook suggests selling women corsets "for the work Christmas party and have them all wondering where you kept those spectacular goodies hidden all year!"

Numerous women use the word "cult" or "brainwashing" to describe their experiences at the chain. Former managers talk of a revolving door of staff. 

Some staff were long-standing customers who say they were initially attracted to working at Honey Birdette for its stated goals of sex-positive and body-positive female power.

"Our Honeys are here to not only empower women but to entertain them," is one of the legends on the company website.

Tori Bellentina, a lingerie collector and blogger, was wooed by managers who had noticed her then-40,000 Instagram followers. But she refused to buy the brand's lingerie, arguing the work uniform should be supplied to workers for free. She also demanded to be paid for the time worked before and after the shop's opening hours, as required by the chain. She was "let go" after four months.

"You say you're empowering women, but you also say I need to tell customers to spank me," says Kate, who worked for the company for two years.

Honey Birdette declined to comment.

On Thursday, a campaign by former workers, co-ordinated by the Young Workers Centre staged protests outside a Melbourne Honey Birdette store. A petition calling on Honey Birdette to cease sexist workplace practices and stop encouraging harassment by customers attracted 5400 signatures towards a target of 6000 in its first week.

Discrimination experts say the allegations of unpaid work, dangerous conditions, bullying and harassment potentially breach the retail workers award and numerous workplace and safety laws.

*Not her real name. Names changed for privacy.

If you have been sexually harassed by a customer/client and want to discuss making a complaint, contact the Human Rights Commission national information service on 1300 656 419 or (02) 9284 9888

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Selasa, 13 Desember 2016

11 Plus Size Holiday Lingerie Sets For Anyone Who Wants To Stay On The Naughty List

Sure, you could wear regular clothes and hide under the tree and remind your significant other that you are a gift, but wrapping yourself up in sexy holiday plus size lingerie could be what you need to take the moment over edge. These sexy plus size holiday lingerie sets basically guarantee that your partner will unwrap you for Christmas.

As well as being a great gift to give your lover or life partner this season, a new set of lingerie can also make you feel good, too. Being adored while wearing expensive satin is one of life's greatest pleasures â€" plus, these sets are cute enough to be worn more than once a year. You can start a sexy new tradition involving your plus size holiday lingerie, which will be almost as exciting to look forward to as the first big reveal of your sexy Santa look. 

Even if you haven't got a partner to show off for, there's plenty of empowerment to be found in wearing lingerie just for yourself as a plus sized person. You don't need anyone else to get one of these sets and feel great in them, just do it for you. Check out some of the cutest sets available this season.

1. Bralette Babydoll 

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Bralette Babydoll (Available to 5x), $32.83, torrid.com

A babydoll that you can wear all year. If you're feeling dangerous enough, you could even rock this to the club. 

2. Red Mesh Santa Babydoll With White Fur Trim

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Red Mesh Santa Babydoll With White Fur Trim (Available to size 34), $30, yoursclothing.co.uk

The best lingerie leaves nothing to the imagination, which is why this is made almost entirely of polka dot mesh. 

3. Red Satin Chemise And Robe Set

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Red Satin Chemise And Robe Set (Available to 6x), $27.95, hipsandcurves.com

If you love to slip into something a little more comfortable, consider how silky and soft this satin will feel against your skin. 

4. Red Velvet Hooded Babydoll 

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Red Velvet Hooded Babydoll (One Size), $60.52, sparklingstrawberry.com

It's entirely up to you if you want to pair this with red panties or absolutely nothing else. 

5. Halter Tie Cup Heart Print Babydoll

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Halter Tie Cup Heart Print Babydoll (Available to 6x), $29.95, hipsandcurves.com

If you're not into red as much as the season wants you to be, this hint of the color is more than enough. 

6. Pink And Red Overlaid Lace Balcony Bra & Panties

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Pink And Red Overlay Lace Bra (Available to 46G), $33, yoursclothing.co.uk / Pink And Red Overlay Lace Panties (Available to size 34), $12, yoursclothing.co.uk

Sometimes the sexiest lingerie is a well-fitting bra and panties set. 

7. Red Lace Up Velvet Romper

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Red Lace Up Velvet Romper (One Size), $59.25, sparklingstrawberry.com

Who knew a cuddly romper could be made to look so sexy? 

8. Unwrap Me Open Cup Babydoll

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Unwrap Me Open Cup Babydoll (Available to 3x), $35.95, yandy.com

Don't forget â€" you're the best present that anyone could ever receive. 

9. Red Plunging Body With Lace Cups And Cut Out Back

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Red Plunging Body With Lace Cups And Cut Out Back (Available to size 34), $27, yoursclothing.co.uk

You could totally tuck this into jeans for an underwear as outerwear Madonna look. 

10. Stretch Lace Teddy With Heart Back

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Stretch Lace Teddy With Heart Back (Available to 6x), $24.95, hipsandcurves.com

Also available in black and white, just in case you have more than one person to impress. 

11. Santa's Cutie Red Chemise

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Santa's Cute Red Chemise (One Size), $48.07, sparklingstrawberry.com

The ultimate Mrs Claus look, hands down. 

Time is ticking to get your presents and your outfits ready for the holidays, so why not combine them both and pick up some amazing lingerie off this list? The holidays might not be inherently sexy, but with these sets, they totally will be.

Images: Courtesy Brands

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Kamis, 08 Desember 2016

Making Lingerie for Every Body

The history of lingerie has long been one of form over function. From the classic corset, which calls to mind tight laces, restricted breathing, cracked ribs, and even rearrangement of the wearer’s internal organs, lingerie is an area of fashion where the adage “beauty hurts” seems to reign supreme. This is markedly at odds with the promise of lingerie in modern day advertising â€" that the sexiness one feels while wearing X-brand of (probably expensive) satin and lace creates the confidence needed to pursue one’s own pleasure.

Yet for clothing that is inextricably linked to sex â€" which, ideally, is all about experiencing and sharing pleasure in our bodies â€" lingerie is often created without the comfort of the wearer in mind. In fact, in an article for the >LA Times as recently as 2013, one woman described her search for the perfect lingerie as thus: “The tap pants were too small and cut off circulation in my thighs. I vaguely remember crying as I tried to squeeze into them."

Not much of a confidence booster.

More recently, new brands of lingerie have begun to take this spotty history into account. In March 2016, Verily Mag ran a spotlight on lingerie brands that were trying to change the airbrushed and overtly sexual stereotype of the industry. Included in the roundup was Naja, a brand dedicated to positive body imagery, eco-consciousness, and providing opportunities for working single mothers; Dear Kate, which boasts the radical concept of women “actually looking happy in their un-Photoshopped bodies;” and Nubian Skin, which addresses the erasure of women of color in the lingerie industry, and offers lingerie in a “different kind of nude,” that is, not white.

Pêche founder Carson Stern. Photo: Pêche

These new perspectives on lingerie are undoubtedly refreshing and necessary, but there’s one boundary they haven’t yet crossed: gender. While strides have been made to make lingerie inclusive of every body type, they’re still restricted to cisgender women as consumers. One designer aims to change that. Carson Stern, the NYC-based creator of Pêche Lingerie, seeks to revolutionize the way we think about lingerie by designing intimate apparel “for her, him, and them.” Pêche defies expectations in terms of who gets to wear lingerie and feel sexy in it, breaking the traditional narratives around these garments.

When we spoke about the impetus behind Pêche, Stern talked about her own relationship to unrealistic standards of beauty. She described how she moved to New York City at 1- and quickly developed an eating disorder, influenced in part by the stress of being in a new place. As she healed from the eating disorder, Stern says, she became very naturally interested in lingerie as she pursued a career in fashion. Her early experiences with it, though, were similar to those of the women interviewed by the LA Times:

“If I felt a bit bloated, I wouldn’t feel sexy in it, and wouldn’t want to wear it,” Stern says. “I love my body, but even now, mainstream brands of lingerie tend to make me feel worse about my body.” We talked about how this was at odds with the promise of lingerie in advertising â€" selling confidence, albeit only to a very narrow scope of consumers. “Skinny white women with their boobs pushed up,” Stern jokes. “That’s who most lingerie is for, but it’s not me or my style.”

We talked about the tension between the two purported goals of lingerie: to make an erotic object of the wearer, while also providing a means of confidence-through-sexiness, and agreed that these goals at times seem to work in direct opposition to an authentic experience of sexuality.

As a sex educator as well as a cis femme wearer of lingerie, this tension is something I encounter a lot, both professionally and personally. As an educator, I talk to colleagues and clients about how to keep the body â€" and physical experiences of sensuality and eroticism â€" at the forefront of our sexual lives. And in my personal life, I've written before about how an embodied sense of sexuality was â€" and in some ways, continues to be â€" a rocky journey.

“Woman at Her Toilette” by Niclas Lafrensen (1737-1807) Photo: Heritage Images/Getty Images

In researching the history of lingerie, it’s not difficult to see where these competing raisons d’être come from. Lingerie has always been tied in some way to sex, but it has also been linked with the idea of performance. For example, take the practice of toilette in the French courts during the 1700s. Toilette is described as the morning ritual of dressing and undressing in front of the court â€" a performance that often lingered on the undergarments to emphasize the intimacy and eroticism of the moment.

It’s easy to make a connection between toilette and the performative aspect of lingerie â€" and since, historically, lingerie has been designed primarily with cisgender women in mind, one could also make the connection to the performative aspects that many women describe as being a part of their early sexuality. The ritual of toilette makes an object of the wearer: She is something to be gazed upon in a vulnerable â€" and therefore intimate â€" state of undress. Her subjective experience is absent from such a performance, however.

Peggy Orenstein, the author of >Girls and Sex: Navigating the Complicated New Landscape, identifies this kind of objectification as something that happens to those who are socialized female long before they start wearing, or perhaps even expressing interest, in lingerie. In a rather disquieting introduction to her book, she writes, “When little girls play at ‘sexy’ before they understand the word… they learn that sex is a performance rather than a felt experience.”

An exacting interpretation of how to be femme spans centuries, and it is overwhelmingly related to restricting or reshaping the body. The s-curve corset, which came into popularity in the 1800s, accentuated the breasts, pushing them up and out, as well as the hips, and further created a manufactured standard of beauty that women were pressured to aspire to and work toward, but which was painstaking to achieve. Wealthy women were encouraged to shop for intricate and finely designed undergarments, putting as much consideration into them as they would their outer garments.

A lingerie fashion show in 1961 Paris. Photo: Getty Images

While ideal aesthetics do change over time, one thing that tends to remains constant is how inevitably elusive they are. In the early 20th century, for example, and then again in the 1960s, the ideal flipped from hourglass figures to the straight up-and-down boyish figures of flapper girls and hippies â€" yet these new paradigms didn’t lose any of the scrupulous effort it would take to achieve them. The sexually liberated braless look of the ‘60s meant that A- and B-cup bras made of thin, sheer fabric were in vogue at the time, making it difficult for larger-breasted women to find lingerie created with them in mind.

It goes almost without saying that lingerie was a realm of fashion almost exclusively for cisgender women who fit within whatever very narrow standards of beauty existed at the time.

Stern used this as her jumping off point when developing Pêche. “It came from a place of, ‘Why isn’t there something out there that offers what I value in lingerie?’” she told me. To Stern, lingerie is emotional, intimate; it brings the wearer to a sense of connection and communion with her own body, rather than a competition to fit into some idealized version of femininity that, for most, is unreachable.

“I began to look at the body types typical of Renaissance art,” Stern said, “plumpness, and curves being embraced rather than restricted.” She was also interested in body positivity for all genders, instead of just cisgender women, recalling that her many friends who were genderfluid, transgender, or nonbinary often felt erased when searching for intimate apparel, and chafing against the heteronormativity inherent in lingerie advertising.

A Pêche model in the mink choker. Photo: Pêche

“I want to design lingerie that redefines beauty standards,” Stern says. “I imagine guys buying lingerie for their boyfriends, or girls for their girlfriends, or anything in between,” rather than the narrative of a cis man buying expensive lingerie for his cis girlfriend, and molding her into an ideal that fits into the narrow standards of the male gaze.

We talked about what lingerie for him/her/them would look like, and for Stern, it meant focusing on sensuality and sensation rather than standards of beauty. Function, one might say, rather than form. Hearing her talk about this made me breathe a sigh of relief, because as a sex educator, I so often talk to friends and clients about this feeling of being disconnected from our bodies â€" which is a strange state to be in, and certainly unhelpful, to say the least, when it comes to the fundamental physicality inherent in the act of sex.

Stern described Pêche’s first collection as “Grecian” and comprised of well-made silks that sit well on all types of bodies. She waxed poetic as she described the collection: “Each piece can work for a different kind of person. For example, pants. Or a top that is good for bigger breasts. Grecian dresses or draping gowns. Exposed, see-through â€" but some pieces you can also wear out. Others are for a special place for a special time. Looser fitting clothing that falls on the body in a really natural way that is beautiful. Renaissance art, the Botticelli Venus, cloth that hangs and drapes on the body naturally without restricting it. Methodically stitched and special and not mass produced. I want to completely redefine how we see â€" and experience â€" lingerie.” Tellingly, the Birth of Venus painting attributed to Botticelli shows the goddess naked except for her hair, a picture of sensuality whose body is unrestricted by clasps, straps, or garters.

The sense of the erotic is present even in the words that Stern uses to describe her collection, in the way it is so clear that her designs are meant to drape and flow and feel luxurious on the skin to compliment sensuality rather than hinder it. When I made this observation to her, Stern had this to say: “I’m coming from a very honest place â€" the only thing I can do is come from my own experience. Sensuality. Fabrics I like.”

Pêche Mink, velvet, and gold chokers. Proceeds go to Planned Parenthood and the ACLU. Photo: Pêche

In terms of her drive to create a space for gender fluidity, she is also dedicated to that goal not only on behalf of her friends but also herself. “I exhibit very strong masculinity in everyday life. But I’m very proud of my ‘feminine’ voluptuous body. I’m dedicated to creating a line that represents a range for people who don’t want it fit into the strictly masculine or strictly feminine.” It’s important to note, however, that that range is something that, with Pêche, each individual consumer is able to determine for themselves â€" as opposed to, for example, the lingerie of the ‘80s, which was feminine in a very compulsory way, to compensate for the very masculine shoulder-pads-and-straight-lines-and-angles style of women’s fashion in that era.

And while access has always been a hard-to-ignore theme when it comes to the history of lingerie, it’s not one that has been lost on Stern. “We’re a high-end line, no doubt,” she says, especially as they start out small, with expensive fabrics and a relatively small base of followers. But the accessibility of lingerie is still important to her, as is the social change that inspired her to create the line. In an Instagram post in light of the recent election, for example, she encouraged fans to comment with their favorite charities that help “propel America forward” â€" especially those who help our most vulnerable populations (among which are transgender and gender-nonconforming people) as well as the environment.

“I’m trying to appeal to everyone and redefine lingerie,” Stern says. “There is no set standard for what I’m doing” â€" only a dedication to inclusivity, authenticity, and a way to bring people home to sensuality in their bodies again.

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